Pedres Blanques, VdF Rouge, 2023

This wine has a beautiful, whole cluster, floral and clove nose that keeps you coming back and back and back, for umami, for tapenade, for black and blue fruit. On the palate the fruit is both rich —with that southern, candied Grenache— and surprisingly buoyant. Where the wine departs from your usual vin de soif is with structure. Though this is an infused and unsulfured wine, with all the silkiness that comes from that, there is also verticality. Not old-school structure, mind you, but simply reminiscent of the vines: clinging to that schist with a mix of great will and fragility.