Hammelmann, Spatburgunder Rose, Brut Nature, Germany NV

Hammelmann makes a very limited amount of sparkling wine, normally from Pinot Noir planted in the more limestone-rich soils of Hochstadt. The 2022 releases are Brut Nature, despite being labeled Extra Brut (the labels were printed before the wines were bottled and he wanted the freedom to add a dosage if he needed or wanted to – in the end he did not). The sparkling wines are very fine, with a delicate perlage, a fine acidity that is woven into the wine. While the still wines of Hammelmann can have a shrieking incisiveness, the sparkling wines are subtle and elegant.